REVIEWS FireLake; Gene & Georgetti
Taking a look at a contemporary spot and an iconic steakhouse
The world looked a bit different the last time I reviewed FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar, located in the Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel—as it was a few months after the COVID pandemic was officially recognized.
People were mandated to stay six feet apart from each other in public, and most people (in Chicago, anyway) were wearing masks. Fortunately, it was late summer when a friend and I visited FireLake, so we enjoyed everything from roasted bone marrow (that came up with parsley salad, bacon shallot jam and crusty bread) to a chocolate bomb—consisting of a chocolate flourless cake with chocolate ganache and mousse—while sitting outside.
Fast-forward five years later, and it was pretty obvious that the space-related regulations were no longer in place. Dozens of people (seemingly from a convention or similar event, judging by the name tags) were standing very close to each other and amiably chatting while taking advantage of the spot’s happy hour. However, as happy hour drew to a close, most of the restaurant’s patrons left, leaving approximately 15 people in a spot that suddenly looked pretty spacious. (However, some things hadn’t changed, as there was a downtown protest that resulted in a massive traffic jam.)
This was a shame, as the cuisine at FireLake somehow seems even better than it did in 2020.
One of the highlights of that first visit was the cheese curds. Thank goodness those apps remained on the menu because they were just as delightful this second official time around. I also recommend the pork belly with honey, roasted garlic and jalapeño creamed corn. I have rarely had pork belly that’s been unsatisfactory, and this meat was cooked almost perfectly and, of course, the sides served to enhance the dish. And my entree—pan-roasted salmon with quinoa, lemon-garlic spinach and lemon beurre blanc—proved to be very tasty.
However, discussing what I had is almost a disservice to FireLake’s diverse menu, as I would probably order an entirely different lineup with a subsequent visit—and would probably be just as impressed. Other house specialties include vegetable pasta, a half rotisserie chicken and seared Cajun whitefish, while grilled meats include New York strip and smoked pork ribs (among other items). In addition, there are flatbreads, salads (including watermelon and roasted-corn varieties) and crudos, and even beef barbacoa-loaded fries.
As for dessert, you can’t go wrong with the key lime cheesecake, but there are also offerings such as warm lava cake, carrot-pineapple cake and dairy-free coconut flan. And the attention that server Maria and manager Astrit paid—not only to me but to all of the patrons—was pretty impressive as well.
Many things may have changed in the world, but thank goodness the quality at FireLake hasn’t.
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To say that the River North spot Gene & Georgetti has a little history is like saying Taylor Swift is a little famous.
The iconic Tuscan steakhouse was founded in 1941 by Gene Michelotti and his partner Alfredo Federighi, who was nicknamed “Georgetti” after a famous Italian cyclist. Upon Alfredo’s death in 1969, Gene became the sole proprietor of Gene & Georgetti, until his death in 1989. Gene’s daughter, Marion, married Tony Durpetti in 1969. They have one daughter, Michelle—who is now the first woman to run the restaurant.
And the reverence for Gene & Georgetti continues to this day. On May 22, Gene & Georgetti, Chicago’s original Tuscan steakhouse since 1941, ushered in its 85th year with a special street dedication in honor of Tony Durpetti, who passed away last year. And recently, the restaurant was honored for its wine program in Wine Spectator’s 2025 Restaurant Awards, earning the Award of Excellence for the second time since 2023. Meanwhile, Michelle Durpetti was conferred the Order of the Star of Italy, one of the Italian Republic’s highest civilian honors. Durpetti’s recognition—the Ordine della Stella d’Italia—places her among a select group of Italian-Americans honored for advancing Italy’s global cultural presence.
Why do I mention Gene & Georgetti’s history and honors that are still coming more than eight decades after being founded? To put it succinctly, the restaurant must be doing something right.
Also, Gene & Georgetti is probably one of the few restaurants in Chicago in which the waitstaff is—shall we say—seasoned. This actually heartened me for several reasons, including the fact that the servers adhere to that old-school style of hospitality and generosity. And the atmosphere is that of a welcoming culinary museum. Manager Angelo Yohanna almost immediately makes you feel like family, whether you’re a first-time visitor or a longtime patron (which many people are). Depending on where you sit—and try to get the Frank Sinatra Booth, if you can—you can see either a fresco or photos of the scores of celebrities who have stopped by. (I remember when I visited years ago; Carol Burnett was scheduled to stop by later that day.)
And the delightful menu selections reflect the traditional as well. The prime beef carpaccio—with crispy artichokes, arugula and pecorino—was pretty addictive and I even adored the crab cakes. As I’ve previously stated in other columns, this former East Coast resident is a bit of a crab snob but the server (Juan) assured me that the cakes were exquisite; I’m glad I trusted him. (Some of the other app choices include baked clams, with garlic-breadcrumb stuffing; calamari; and prosciutto and burrata.)
Naturally, there are pasta dishes here—and they certainly don’t disappoint (and I love the fact that these items also have the Italian region of origin printed on the menu as well). The tordelli lucchesi (house-made pasta filled with a blend of beef, pork and herbs, a traditional recipe from our home town of Lucca) was simply sublime, and the spaghetti cacio e pepe was almost on the same level, if a tad peppery. However, there was no doubt that the chefs, after all this time, could churn these sumptuous dishes in their sleep. My friend went with the eggplant parm—and she couldn’t stop raving about it.
Of course, with this place being a steakhouse, there are several cuts available, such as bone-in ribeye, skirt steak, filet mignon and even Colorado lamb chops. I might try one of those the next time I visit—and I certainly plan for there to be a next time.
And if by some miracle you have room for dessert (as these are sizable dishes, after all), you should certainly try it (or have some wrapped to take home). While we enjoyed the funfetti (which was offered in June as a Pride Month item, with proceeds benefiting Center on Halsted), the spumoni (which we also savored), old-school chocolate cake, turtle cheesecake, panna cotta and tiramisu are still there.
Gene & Georgetti reminds me of that Dean Martin song “That’s Amore.” You really can almost taste the love in practically everything.
There are several reasons why this restaurant has been around so long and has inspired such a loyal following. Visit it.
Note: SAVOR visits are pre-arranged, unless otherwise indicated.
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